"On Pushkin's 'beefsteaks,' [Nabokov] observes: 'The European beefsteak used to be a small, thick, dark, ruddy, juicy, soft, special cut of tenderloin steak, with a generous edge of amber fat on the knife-side. It has little, if anything, in common with our American "steaks" -- the tasteless meat of restless cattle. The nearest approach to it is a filet mignon.'" [V. Nabokov. Eugene Onegin, 1964, 2:149; quoted in Brian Boyd's Vladimir Nabokov: the American Years.]